I’m gonna write about outdoor bouldering areas in Hokkaido that I know.
After climbing in Bibai City form some time and feeling that you are getting strong, how about trying outdoor bouldering?
(*When climbing outdoors, please have good manners such as “Not shout,” “Take trash home,” and “Brush the boulders after climbing.”)
Asahikawa City：Kamuy Kotan
Kamuy Kotan is famous place as a tourist destination, attracting many tourists from inside and outside of Hokkaido, but it is also a place that has the power to attract rock climbers as well.
(*Since this is a sacred place for the Ainu, I am particularly careful about observing good manners when visiting/climbing here.)
It takes some time to get to the bouldering areas from the parking lot, and you can enjoy the beautiful nature while walking along the way.
The bouldering areas are divided into several areas, and there are famous bouldering areas such as “Kenji Komoro” and ”Ryozanpaku.”
“Kenji Komoro” has a legendary boulder problem called “habu” which was sent by Yuji Hirayama for the first time, and it is the landmark as a 2 dan (7b+) boulder in Hokkaido. I really want to send this problem!
“Ryozanpaku” also has problems ranging from around 5 kyuu (4+) levels to over 1 dan (7b) levels, and there are also traverse problems that we can enjoy.
Information from climbing net (written in Japanese)：https://www.climbing-net.com/iwaba_detail/旭川ボルダー/
Mashike Town: Boulder Park
As the name suggests, the Boulder Park is studded with many boulders, and there are a few small arbors where visitors can sit and take a break. Since this Park is located on a gentle downhill facing the ocean, and you can enjoy bouldering while feeling as if you go on a picnic.
The parking lot is right next to the bouldering area, and the approach to the boulders is very easy, so I think it’s a place where even climbers with little outdoor bouldering experience can come and enjoy.
However, the rock surface is not very friendly to the skin, so the friction is quite good while the fingers will be really sore after a half day of climbing.
Since you will be driving along the coastal road for a while to get here, you can also enjoy driving along the way.
Mashike Town: Cape Ofuyu
This bouldering area requires a special approach to get to, so if possible, you should go there with at least one more climber (because if you go there along and something happens such as getting injured, there will be no one around, so you will be in trouble).
Because this bouldering area is facing the ocean, you can enjoy the rough-surfaced boulders unique to the coast.
There is a roof wall (it is quite narrow though) that is almost parallel to the ground, and there is a wall with the famous problem, Lupine (7b＋), so you can enjoy various problems.
In the summer time, the direct sunlight gets pretty strong, so you will be surely get sunburned while climbing. Be sure to hydrate well.
Noboribetsu City: Ayoro
This is the bouldering place I’ve been into since last year, and it’s located right next to the Noboribetsu fishing port, which is just behind the Noboribetsu Marine Park Nixe (https://en.nixe.co.jp/).
As it is a sacred place for the Ainu, when I go there, I that I am getting some kind of power.
(*On the other hand, since I climb in a sacred place, I’m especially careful about observing manners, such as taking trash home, brushing the boulders after climbing.)
There are a variety of problems ranging from around a 5 kyuu (4+) level to a 3 dan (7C+) level, and there are various slab problems as well, so you can enjoy a different style of climbing from other bouldering areas.
The rock surface is hard on the skin, and while the friction is good, your fingers will be too sore to keep climbing after a half day of good climbing. Moreover, for some reason, when you touch a boulder, you can get static electricity.
I am actually enjoying soaking in hot springs in Kojohama as well on the way back from here. It will make the end of your day more fulfilling.
Information from climbing net (written in Japanese)：https://www.climbing-net.com/iwaba_detail/アヨロ/
Kamoenai Village: Nishino Kawara Boulder
The approach to this bouldering area is quite long, and it takes about 30 minutes to get there on foot after walking on the rock-strewn beach along the coast, but it is a bouldering area worth visiting.
In the bouldering area, climbable boulders are scattered, and there are various types of boulders, such as a tall one, a roof-shaped one that makes you wanna climb, and a vertical boulder with many crimpy holds, so you can enjoy various problems.
Although it is a long trip to get there, I think it will be a fun day if you can also enjoy the seafood in Shakotan.
There is also a campsite in Shakotan, so if you enjoy camping, it will be a much more fulfilling holiday.
Shimukappu Village: Niniu
Niniu is further back from the Akaiwa Seigankyo Gorge which is probably the most famous (lead) climbing area in Hokkaido. To get to the Niniu bouldering area, you need to drive from the said Gorge toward the former Niniu Campsite and keep driving until you pass the Campsite and get to the river. (*Please note that the road may be closed due to weather, etc.)
You can enjoy bouldering while listening to the murmuring of the river, so if you go there on a sunny day, you will feel very refreshed.
There are various problems, from 5 kyuu (4+) grade to dan (7a+) grade, and you can enjoy the thrill of climbing a tall boulder as well.
North Okhotsk Boulder
North Okhotsk Boulder consists of consist of more than 10 areas and 100 challenges in various areas scattering over a wide range from north to south.
I’ve only climbed the area around the Cape Hinode Campsite in Omu Town, but since this bouldering area is facing the ocean, it makes us feel that we come here for swimming as well.
Speaking of the problems, you can enjoy a slab problem of about 5 kyuu (4+) grade, as well as a 1 dan (7a+) problem on a vertical smooth wall.
As the bouldering area is right behind the campsite, the approach is quite easy (*You have to be a little careful when you walk down the steep hill to get to the bouldering area).
These bouldering areas listed above are the places that I have visited.
When you get used to sending the 4 kyuu (6a) level problems in Bibai Walls, how about taking a little trip to go outdoor bouldering while enjoying sightseeing as well?
The atmosphere is completely different in each bouldering area, but the feeling of climbing outdoors is surely very pleasant.
If the weather is nice, you can enjoy driving along the way while listening to music in a car, which will definitely make your day.
